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"I divided my youth between our home and the family’s vineyard. I love the Médoc more than any other place. For its wine, of course, but also for its landscapes. Here, pine forests border endless sandy beaches. Then there is the estuary and the ocean. There’s Bordeaux too. The route that I suggest winds through vineyards, taking in some of the most prestigious wines in the Bordeaux region. It takes you down into the Sauternes region before making a stopover in Saint-Émilion. Finally, as in any good meal, it follows the estuary and the vine-covered slopes of Bourg and Blaye to finish off with an excellent digestif. Cognac is right before you."
To give you inspiration, Relais & Châteaux presents the Routes du Bonheur: suggestions for travel itineraries that you can fully personalise according to your wishes and the experiences you would like to discover. Our consultants are available to help customise your route and assist you in making reservations at our properties. It is up to you to reserve any recommended activities on-site or nearby that might interest you.
*Total price provided for information only, based on accommodation for two people in a double room for the number of nights per property as indicated on this page, exclusive of recommended activities, properties that cannot be reserved online and restaurants.
Restaurant and hotel in a vineyard. On the route of the châteaux, close to Château Lynch-Bages, grand cru classé of Pauillac, this 17th century charterhouse invites you to discover true art de vivre. Around a garden, the bright guestrooms with their muted, timeless décor, the pool, the sauna and the terraces near the vineyards create a haven of well-being. In the dining room, Chef refines the products of the South West and proposes a delightful dialogue between a contemporary cuisine and the Bordeaux grand crus. Visits to châteaux, tasting classes, elaboration of own wine, strolling with the family in the village… Share the savoir-vivre of Epicurean Médoc.
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This is the story of a rebirth. The small village which neighbours our family estate had lost most of its residents over the years. After successive purchases of surrounding vineyards, we realised that a large part of the village now belonged to us. Rather than tearing its houses down, we decided to restore them. Today, the village once again houses businesses and artists’ workshops. Obviously, I recommend a visit to the Lynch-Bages wine storehouses; the receptionists at Cordeillan-Bages will be pleased to organise an appointment for you. www.villagedebages.com
Secret place : lunch in the island of Patiras
This little island, opposite Pauillac, is one of my little secrets. With help from the French coastal protection agency, Philippe Lacourt has restored its beautiful white lighthouse and built a sleek and modern haven. Come here to listen to birdsong and the river in between two expertly-cooked dishes. The host also offers tasty picnics. Reservation necessary.www.gensdestuaire.fr
On the route
Cap Ferret - Bassin d’Arcachon
You must come to Cap Ferret and try a few oysters, washed down with a nice glass of wine. One possibility is the Hôtel de la Plage in L’Herbe village, which was recently taken over by some locals. I also like the atmosphere of the little port of Andernos-les-Bains at high tide. Pay a visit to Joël Lahaye at hut 20 on Quai Lahillon to eat oysters with your feet in the water. A real treat.
Hotel and restaurant in town. The Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez is a private 19th century mansion, driven by two ambassadors of excellence, at the service of the arts. The art of hospitality is showcased by the six elegant guest rooms inspired by Napoleon III style. Culinary arts are embodied by the exceptional cuisine of Pierre Gagnaire. The art of Great Wines, with a wine list unique in the world, boasting 259 positions including 172 Grands Crus Classés, is perfectly aligned to the remarkable signature dishes of the Chef with new creations around local products. The journey continues with contemporary art at the Cultural Institute Bernard Magrez, across the street, with the permanent exhibition of works from the collection of the owner.
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Hotel and restaurant in a village. The Saint-James occupies buildings designed in 1989 by the famous architect Jean Nouvel. They nestle in the delightful little village of Bouliac, in a garden fragrant with lemon trees and antique roses. Inspired by the old tobacco drying lofts, four pavilions, linked by a gallery, create a modern pure space. Far away, you can see the Landes of Gascogne forest, the biggest collection of maritime pines in Europe. The gourmet cuisine is one of the major attractions of the Saint James: the chef serves cuisine which is full of flavour and based on local market ingredients, rounded off by the selection of wines from an outstanding cellar and panoramic views of Bordeaux.
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Bordeaux’s submarine base is a must-see. This gigantic concrete structure was built to house a flotilla of German submarines during the Second World War. Today, part of the base plays host to living art shows and very fine photography exhibitions. An added bonus: if you fancy some oysters (I’m mad about them!), don’t miss Huître à Flot (basin 2), a rather strange and unexpected place.
The Millésima Wine Storehouses
The two-hundred-year-old storehouses belonging to this merchant are definitely the most beautiful in Bordeaux. Picture an 8000 m² storehouse, built entirely of freestone! Inside you will find 2.5 million bottles, 80% of which come from local vineyards. Guided tour and wine tasting by reservation.www.millesima.com
Centre d’Arts plastiques contemporains (Contemporary visual arts centre)
I really like the CAPC. Situated in a former warehouse for colonial goods, this was one of the first museums in France to be entirely devoted to contemporary art. Louise Bourgeois, Cindy Sherman, Buren, Christian Boltanski and Keith Haring have all had work exhibited here. The programme is really high quality. www.capc-bordeaux.fr
Hotel and restaurant in a village. Wine enthusiasts will instantly recognise the name Saint-Émilion as one of the principal appellations of Bordeaux. Savour some great wines at the Hostellerie de Plaisance, where hosts Chantal and Gérard Perse warmly welcome guests to their elegant but relaxed retreat with stunning views of the vineyards as well as the medieval village, a Unesco World Heritage site. The interiors are an excellent blend of sophistication and comfort. At the restaurant be spoiled by the cuisine of the chef, who draws inspiration from the fresh food markets and the treasures of local farmers.
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The Jurade, the guild of Saint-Émilion winemakers, was created in 1199 by the king of England. It was revived in 1948 by local winemakers, and every June and September it organises a parade of “jurats” who march up to the top of the Tour du Roy, dressed in their traditional red robes.
A wine cellar visit
The Château Villemaurine, located on the outskirts of the village, offers Saint-Émilion’s most creative guided tours. Lantern in hand, you can discover the superb underground quarries of this grand cru classé, through a sound and light show which combines history and legend. www.villemaurine.com
Go for a stroll in the streets of Saint-Emilion
Wandering the streets of Saint-Émilion is a real delight. Its World Heritage site status has made it possible to retain great uniformity. The variety of wine merchants and wine bars should be enough to please everyone’s taste buds. My favourite is still l’Envers du Décor (11, rue du Clocher).
On the route
Corniche between Saint-André-de-Cubzac and Blaye
On this flower-lined cliff road, don’t miss the view over the Bec d’Ambès, where the Dordogne and Garonne meet, or the houses…
Hotel and restaurant in the country. Between Cognac and Bordeaux, two renowned wine-growing regions, this Renaissance-style château enjoys a commanding position in the heart of a superb eight-hectare park overlooking the Gironde estuary. You lose all sense of time in this residence which boasts a past which is rich in art and history, with its exquisite fabrics, antique furniture and crystal chandeliers. Château de Mirambeau, which expresses a French art de vivre that is sophisticated yet unpretentious, offers delightful gourmet cuisine. When evening comes, one of the most fascinating rooms in the château, the “Cognathèque”, is the ideal place if you want to taste wine and the best cognacs.
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This impressive citadel, recognised as a World Heritage site, looks out over the Gironde estuary. The military complex, built under orders from Vauban, stretches over almost 38 hectares.
Château du Bouilh (Saint-André-de-Cubzac)
Built by architect Victor Louis, the Château du Bouilh is a superb example of late 18th century neoclassical architecture. Owner Jean-Frédéric de La Tour du Pin was appointed minister of war by King Louis XVI… in 1789! This listed building, which was never completed, is a real film set. www.chateaudubouilh.jimdo.com
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