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"Born in Santa-Reparata-di-Balagna in 1951, I was raised by my aunt and my grandfather, an old shepherd. For a long time, I ate vegetables from our garden and drank milk from my grandfather’s goats. I only spoke Corsican until I started school at the age of 5. Later on, I left for the Ivory Coast and a life of adventure as a pilot. When I returned to Corsica I very happily stumbled into the hotel business. Now, I only want to share the love that I have for my island and give back some of the beauty that it brings."
To give you inspiration, Relais & Châteaux presents the Routes du Bonheur: suggestions for travel itineraries that you can fully personalise according to your wishes and the experiences you would like to discover. Our consultants are available to help customise your route and assist you in making reservations at our properties. It is up to you to reserve any recommended activities on-site or nearby that might interest you.
*Total price provided for information only, based on accommodation for two people in a double room for the number of nights per property as indicated on this page, exclusive of recommended activities, properties that cannot be reserved online and restaurants.
Restaurant and hotel on the seafront. To love Marseille means to love the Mediterranean, inseparable from the city, just like Gérald Passedat’s three-star cuisine. First come sea anemones, bonito, sea urchins, crabs and shellfish. Then fish occupies the heart of his cuisine. More than 65 varieties are fished locally over the year, such as tub gurnard, rascasse, red porgy, comber fish, common dentex, in compliance with the guidelines for the protection of maritime resources. The cult dish is “Bouille Abaisse”, light, iodized and zephyr-like, and also the famous Lucie Passedat sea bass. Sea views are everywhere… from the terrace, from the restaurant and from your spacious bedroom, overlooking the distant horizon.
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A place I like to come for walks; I’ve always found it difficult to be away from the Sea. I have a special relationship with the Mediterranean, which can be amazing here during storms. Everything is magnificent when the North Wind blows and the Sea begins to rage. In the sixties, there were 300 000 Corsicans here, more of us in Marseille than on our Island.
On the route
Port of Calvi
The ferry reaches Calvi in the early morning at the same time as the fishing boats. Sometimes I go down to the port to buy rock mullets, a denti, a corb, or delicious red coral crayfish. At the bottom of the citadel, the port has a nice mix of old locals and pleasure boaters.
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Five minutes from downtown Calvi with its lofty citadel, La Signoria, an 18th century Genoese estate, is perfectly positioned at the foot of the Corsican mountains, but within close proximity to the beautiful sandy beach. The estate is set in a lush paradise of orange trees, palm and pine trees and gurgling fountains. Take in the intoxicating aroma of the maquis poolside, in the Jacuzzi or in the Spa Casanera. Guests will feel that they are vacationing at someone’s home. The charming, well maintained private beach “Signoria Mare” awaits them to sample the local flavours at the fisherman’s hut inspired restaurant.
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Created in 1935 from an old Corsican residence in the heart of the Calvi citadel, this cabaret was founded by Tao, a retired Broadway dancer. His sons now handle the business while maintaining the spirit of their father’s motto: Live happily today, tomorrow it will be too late.
The market on L’Île-Rousse
Place Paoli, the 21-row covered market is a mandatory stop for people from all around the area. There is a strong fishing culture here and L’Île-Rousse is one of the only markets where early in the morning you’ll find local fishermen and hear the fishmonger’s cry.
On the route
Corte
A must-see for everyone wanting to know and understand Corsica. At one point the capital, today Corte is the starting point for hiking and exploring two magnificent valleys, the Tavignano and the Restonica.
Archaeological Museum and site of Aléria
Here in the ancient capital of classical Corsica, in the heart of a fort built by the Genoese, is the Departmental Museum of archaeology Gilort (Jérôme) Carcopino. Etruscan, Phoenician and Roman artefacts stretch out down the display rooms and provide an understanding of not only Corsica’s ancient history, but also that of the entire Mediterranean basin.
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. The Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa has dropped anchor in a sheltered bay in the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio. Toussaint Canarelli and his daughter Hélène have created a delightful, authentic spot where you can while away your days romantically in the languid torpor of its fine sanded beaches and the peace of its extensive gardens in the shade of the pine trees. Right next to your room, the Nucca Spa, a huge area with wood and water throughout, offers soothing treatments. In this land of fragrances, the chef draws on freshly picked vegetables from the hotel’s organic garden and produces gourmet menus with many ingredients from the island.
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Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. The hotel basks in the scents of the maquis, perched on a hillside overlooking Palombaggia Beach. This is one of the finest beaches in southern Corsica, with its turquoise waters and white sands fringed by stone pines, and the Cerbicales islands in the distance. The elegant stone bastide boasts guest rooms overlooking the surrounding countryside which are simply decorated in natural colours and materials so as not to upstage its rare environment. La Table de Mina ("grandmother" in Corsican), the restaurant, offers an introduction to the cuisine and ingredients of Corsica. It occupies a peaceful terrace next to an infinity pool that reflects the sky and the stars.
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A golf course carved out between sea and scrubland, Sperone is one of the most beautiful 18-hole courses in the world. Telling a history of the landscape, the exceptional location has led to the course being named, The most beautiful location in France, several times by Golf Européen magazine.
Scala di Santa Regina
You start at the Vergio pass (1650 m), through one of the most beautiful coniferous forests in Europe. Before the trail switches back, there is a small statue of Saint Regina on a rock outcrop, where locals lay altar candles. My father and I used to come and fish for trout just below—the Niolo stream follows the trail. This is the heart of a gorgeous and important region for transhumance.
Bonifacio
Some say that you don’t visit Bonifacio, but that you leave it. Standing over limestone cliffs sculpted by wind and sea, the city owes a great deal to the unbelievable site it was built upon. Here, you can walk along ancient ramparts full of history; also close at hand are the islands of Lavezzi and Spérone and one of the most beautiful gulfs in the world.
Calanques de Piana and the Golfe de Girolata
So beautiful! Experience the calanques by boat while dolphins swim alongside. Be awe-inspired when you see the stones fall into the Sea up close. Discover the Golfe de Girolata and the Scandola Nature Reserve, the most beautiful site in the Mediterranean. All you need is a mask and a snorkel to see all of Corsica’s underwater treasures, spectacular groupers and rockfish. On your way back, take the time to have a drink under the impressive friezes in the great hall of L’Hôtel des Roches.
Hotel and restaurant in the country. Tiny traditional stone houses, tucked away in five hectares of forest, in the shade of juniper bushes and holm oaks, have been converted into sophisticated rooms where you can relax. The air is fragrant with the scents of the garrigue, and there are delightful views to be enjoyed over the Gulf of Arzachena and the Archipelago of Maddalena. The wellness centre, housed in natural granite grottos, offers a treatments specialising in Oriental techniques. The Italian regional cuisine served in the restaurant is light and appetising. Unless lunch on board a boat on a private excursion on the clear waters of the Costa Smeralda exercises an even greater attraction.
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Diving in the emerald-green waters of the Costa Smeralda
Away from the scrublands and forests of cork trees and rosemary, the Costa Smeralda is home to picture postcard beaches that include Principe and Romazzino. Gallura's granite cliffs tower over countless more private coves which are only accessible by boat. Such is the diversity of marine flora and fauna that this area delights both snorkellers and scuba divers...
Regattas at the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda
Founded in 1967 by His Highness the Aga Khan, the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda has always drawn in the jet set and sailing fans. The YCCS has enjoyed some success in the America’s Cup (Azzurra team), and more recently in the Volvo Ocean Race. The regattas held several times a year between May and September off the Costa Smeralda attract huge and magnificent single-hulled vessels to compete. An event not to be missed.
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. A stay at La Villa is a statement. This hotel stands for good taste. It offers a particular art of living. La Villa, much like a private club, is a haven for lovers of beauty, tranquillity and culture. Art permeates the entire hotel, from the painter’s canvas to the violinist’s bow, not to mention the keys of the piano. Culinary art too has some well-tempered chords to play. The views over the Bay of Calvi, the scents of the sea and the pine forests, the sounds of music mingling with the song of the cicadas, the flavours of the local ingredients, beautiful plasterwork cool to the touch... Just enter La Villa, across from the Citadel, and all your senses will come alive.
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The small village of Sant’Antonino, in the heart of the region of Balagne, has remained authentic. The stone-paved streets wind between houses that have sometimes been built into the rock. Located on a promontory 490 m high and listed as one of "the most beautiful villages in France", Sant’Antonino offers an incredible view of the Sea.
Church of the Trinity and San Giovanni, Aregno
Located in the heart of a cemetery, this church is one of the finest examples of Pisan Roman art. Construction dates back to the second half of the 12th century and the church was classified an historic monument in 1883. The size of the stones is (almost) one-of-a-kind.
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