The next chapter of chocolate, inspired by Valrhona

When Guanaja was first launched by Valrhona, in 1986, it was considered so intense, so powerful, that it was suggested to be consumed only in the smallest quantities, in 5g squares, alongside a cup of coffee, and stored in a metal container inspired by cigar boxes. The message was clear: this was not a chocolate for the faint-hearted but connoisseurs.

In a global market used to much sweeter dark chocolate, Guanaja’s distinctive tanginess, aromatic notes and notable ‘grilled’ character certainly made waves. The way it borrowed from wine vocabulary–as a ‘Grand Cru’ blend of Criollo and Trinitario cocoa beans–and displayed its percentage of cocoa solids was similarly revolutionary.

But over time, it has helped drive a sea change in the wider cultural appreciation of chocolate. Today, knowledge of what cacao is–where it comes from, how it is processed, its many varieties and flavors, and what percentages mean–reach new levels in the culinary consciousness. And that vibe is now helping write the next chapter of chocolate.

From sweet… to savory

“In fine dining restaurants, guests are often looking for something beyond the familiar sweetness and comfort associated with chocolate and increasingly open to more intense, complex and deeper chocolate profiles,” says Coline Doussin, pastry chef at the Relais & Châteaux Saint James Paris hotel. “This encourages us, as pastry chefs, to explore chocolate in a more creative and unexpected way. Personally, I see chocolate as an ingredient that belongs primarily to pastry, but I particularly enjoy creating a dialogue between chocolate and savory ingredients.”

It’s an approach beautifully articulated by the Aiguilles de Pin dessert, in which chocolate is paired with pine needles, which add a subtle smoky, resinous character, or the Chocolate Olive, which incorporates fresh olives and olive oil. Neither is one-note chocolate; nor are they classically sweet. “The savory, slightly salty character of the olive and the richness of the oil help to enhance and bring out the chocolate's aromatic notes,” she says.

Enter the entrées

Other chefs are embracing the chance for chocolate to infiltrate their appetizers and entrées, just as is done in Central and South American dishes. “I think there is also a real opportunity to bring it into contemporary French cuisine,” says Chef Christophe Hay, whose two-Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant at Relais & Châteaux Fleur de Loire in Blois, south-west of the capital, is renowned for its culinary free expression.

The way Valrhona layered wine vocabulary over the world of chocolate has been particulary powerful, he says. “We don’t just talk about whether a wine is red or white: we talk about the grape, the terroir, how it has been aged, and so on. To look at chocolate in a similar way, I pay much more attention now to the aromatic profile rather than simply looking at the percentage of cocoa.”

More widely, the distinctive taste profile of Guanaja has helped encourage chefs to revisit what they thought they knew about chocolate. “Guaranja has a real intensity, a certain bitterness and very deep flavours–as soon as you taste it, it gives you an idea of where you can take it. Other chocolates will be more fruity, more rounded or more delicate, and that changes the way you cook with them.”

Brave new world

This, then, is the brave new world of chocolate: an evolving culinary destination where the growing sophistication of people’s palates encourages chefs to conceive more unexpected chocolate recipes – and that too spurs it all on.

“We can no longer simply use chocolate in a conventional way,” says Matteo Demeglio, pastry chef at two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gastronomique Georges Blanc in Vonnas, north of Lyon. “In fact, when I look at the desserts we currently offer, chocolate is certainly present, but never on its own–always enhanced or elevated, combined with spirits, coffee, cereals and aromatic herbs.”

As well as Guanaja, his repertoire includes a full arsenal of Valrhona’s chocolate, including Millot (a 74% dark chocolate, Caraïbe (a 66% dark chocolate), Bahibé (a single origin 46% milk chocolate) and Opalys (a 33% white chocolate).

“As guests are able to distinguish high-quality chocolate from lower-quality products, it becomes easier for us to make more specific choices. This is extremely motivating, as it inspires ideas and combinations that, even ten years ago, we might have been hesitant to explore.”

By Ian Cameron.