The perfect pace of service

By the time the first guests arrive, the pace is already underway. In Blois, Christophe Hay presides over Fleur de Loire. In La Rochelle, Nicolas Brossard oversees the dining room of Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau, which he co-owns with the chef. In Crissier, Switzerland, Charline Pichon is head sommelier at Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville. Their experiences resonate from one house to the next. Their stories offer a glimpse behind the scenes of the dining experience.

BLANCPAIN & THE ART OF LIVING

Rooted in authenticity, craftsmanship, and tradition, Blancpain’s Art of Living embodies a vision of luxury defined by human warmth, generosity, and restrained elegance. Extending well beyond fine dining, this philosophy of hospitality reflects a world where luxury is felt rather than displayed.

Since 1986, the House has forged deep connections between the worlds of high watchmaking and haute cuisine. Blancpain and Relais & Châteaux have been partners for more than a decade, celebrating a shared commitment to excellence, precision, and passing down savoir-faire through the generations. 

11:30 a.m.

Pre-service briefing

Christophe Hay, chef at Fleur de Loire in Blois, France

“Service starts with a ritual the guests never see: the employee meal, between 11:30 a.m. and noon. We all take the time to talk and share a moment together. The briefing shortly follows, around noon or 12:15 p.m. With our open-plan kitchen, we’re not separated from the dining room by those swinging doors you often see in restaurants.”

Nicolas Brossard, maître d’hôtel at Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle, France

“We brief our employees every morning before lunch, between 11:15 and 11:30 a.m. The full service personnel meets up. Beforehand, the sommelier might have been down in the cellar, while other employees might have been polishing the silverware or ironing the tablecloths. This is the moment when we come together as one team. We all go over the lunch and dinner reservations, noting any special requirements, events, or celebrations.”

Charline Pichon, head sommelier at Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, Switzerland

“We hold a briefing before every service. From that moment on, only the best will do: every detail matters. I know our regular guests’ preferences by heart, and I share them with my team. I often speak with guests on the phone when we are preparing group dinners or birthday celebrations. That first conversation already gives me a sense of what to expect.”

11:58 a.m.

Final adjustments

Christophe Hay

“When I put on my jacket in my office, I take a moment for myself. I like to close the door, much like an actor in a dressing room. My team respects that moment of concentration.  Then, when service begins, I always stand in the same spot. I have my own little corner where I like everything to be neatly arranged in its place. I have another idiosyncrasy: I’m the one who takes guests’ orders. I value these interactions, as they give me the opportunity to establish a personal connection with the guests before heading into the kitchen.”

Nicolas Brossard

“I shave before every service, both lunch and dinner, to always look impeccable. I get into character as I put on my tie. Just before the guests begin to arrive, I go around the dining room one last time to make sure there isn’t a chair out of place or a tablecloth that isn’t perfectly spread. I also make sure there aren’t too many people standing at the entrance. Having five or six people standing there to greet the first guest can feel intimidating, especially for a guest who is new to our establishments.”

Charline Pichon

“As soon as I put on my service uniform, I step into my role. Setting the tables, checking the lighting in the wine cellar, polishing the glasses: everything has to be perfect.”

12:00 p.m.

Go time

Christophe Hay

“The first order sets everything in motion and the service kicks into gear. In the evening, that occurs around 7:30 p.m. The earlier it comes, the easier it is to pace the service. I keep track of what time each order is taken. I have two Blancpain clocks in the kitchen: one by the cold-prep station and the other by the cooking line. The older one was given to me in 2005 by Monsieur Paul (editor’s note: Paul Bocuse). I have kept it with me in all my adventures.”

Nicolas Brossard

“I take the first order and bring the ticket to Chef Christopher Coutanceau at the pass. And we’re off! The game is on, and it’s always a championship final. We keep track of the time to pace the service and keep people from waiting. If a table ordered twenty minutes ago and hasn’t had their first course, they will notice if other people who arrived afterwards are already being served.”

Charline Pichon

“My favorite moment is the first glass, which sets the tone for the rest of the meal. I personally tend to favor Champagne. We also offer Chasselas to awaken the palate, as we’re passionate about introducing our guests to Swiss wines.”

12:35 p.m.

At the pass

Christophe Hay

“I make sure each plate is perfect and spotless. Each element has been tasted individually. Once the dishes are plated, we take them into the dining room and lift the cloche together. It’s essential to be there with the guests. Monsieur Paul encouraged me to do that. He taught me that I couldn’t hide away in my kitchen.”

Nicolas Brossard

“With our seafood-based cuisine, cooking is a matter of split-second precision. For a fish fillet cooked sous vide at 46°C, Christopher factors in the time needed to plate it and carry it to the table. The warm plate, heated pass, and cloche allow for a gentle continuation of the cooking process. He wants the fish to be at 48°C by the time the guest takes the first bite. For every dish, we know exactly how long it takes to present and serve it, so the guest can begin eating within two and a half minutes.”

1:10 p.m.

Perfect timing

Christophe Hay, Fleur de Loire, Blois, France

“Today’s guests don’t always want to spend as much time at the table as they used to. We’ve reduced the number of courses because the service could sometimes run too long. You have to adapt to guests and their pace. I don’t think there should be more than fifteen minutes between each course.”

Nicolas Brossard, Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau, La Rochelle, France

“It boils down to intuition, experience, observation, and a little psychology. Whether it’s for a birthday or a romantic dinner, I share what I know about the guests and the mood at the table with the chef. We tailor the experience to the guests. Some guests like to talk a lot and take their time over a meal. In those cases, we keep our explanations of each dish brief so as not to interrupt them too much, and we let the kitchen know they aren’t in any hurry. I might also simply ask the guests: ‘Is this pace working for you? Let me know if it’s too fast or too slow.’”

Charline Pichon, Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville, Crissier, Switzerland

“A wine reveals itself differently over the course of a meal. One course follows the next. You remember what came before, but you move on to something new each time. The same wine, on the other hand, can accompany a full meal, evolving as it goes. That’s what makes it special.”

1:30 p.m.

The rush

Christophe Hay

“The days of overheated kitchens and frantic shouting are behind us. Today, the atmosphere is quiet and focused. Unexpected things can happen, but they are handled discreetly. The proverbial kitchen rush, with raised voices and frayed nerves, is a thing of the past.”

Nicolas Brossard

“For us, the rush lasts about an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes over the course of a five-hour service. It requires absolute concentration. That’s why we have such a large, well-coordinated team, and we limit each service to 35 to 40 guests. When everything goes well, the guests never even notice it’s the rush.”

Charline Pichon

“When the dining room is three-quarters full, it’s rush time. But that’s also the positive adrenaline that makes our profession so rewarding. We have to be perfectly efficient, but we mustn’t look frantic or out of breath, so guests feel well looked after but aren’t kept waiting too long. Personally, I love the rush. You don’t see the time go by. Then you look up and think, wow, I’ve been caught up in the action for two hours already!”

2:02 p.m.

The unexpected hitch

Christophe Hay

“What can throw us off our rhythm are things beyond our control: a cigarette break, a guest getting up from the table… Everything is precisely timed, so as soon as we see anyone stand up, we know we’ll have to make an adjustment.”

Nicolas Brossard

“Surprises are what make each service different. You need to spot the first signs of trouble to put the fire out before it spreads. If you’re ten minutes too late, the guest may already be disappointed and their experience compromised. There’s a beauty in improvising while remaining firmly in control.”

Charline Pichon

“You have to react quickly, think clearly, and stay calm. Take a moment to think things through, and you’ll see that 75% of the time, the problem can be solved within two minutes. These are things you learn with experience.”

At all times

One step ahead

Christophe Hay

“We have subtle nonverbal signals to communicate with each other without disturbing the guests. For example, a little rolling hand gesture to signal that we need to pick up the pace a little.”

Nicolas Brossard

“I put a lot of emphasis on composure: no abrupt gestures, no brisk steps. Our discussions in the dining room must be very brief. If we get flustered, guests immediately sense it.”

Charline Pichon

“It’s up to us to anticipate guests’ needs so that their glasses are never empty. We always stay one step ahead. As soon as we clear the glasses from one wine, we set down fresh glasses and move on to the next. We explain what we are doing: ‘Allow me to open the bottle a little ahead of time so the wine has a chance to breathe.’”

3:25 p.m. (or later...)

The last table

Christophe Hay

“We close off the open kitchen to begin cleaning, then reopen it for pastry service. The race isn’t over yet: we still need to be there to support the pastry team. Service is officially over when the lights above the pass go out. If we were athletes, that would be the moment to throw our hands up and celebrate!”

Nicolas Brossard

“I devote special consideration to the final hour. Dessert, coffee, herbal teas, after-dinner drinks, farewells: every moment matters. And it’s precisely at this point that the team can start to lose focus. Guests check the time: it’s already 4:30 p.m. ‘Wow, we’ve been here for four hours! Where does the time go?’ Some seem almost embarrassed. I reassure them: ‘Don’t worry, it’s a beautiful thing! You’ve lost track of time, you haven’t even glanced at your watch.’ That means we’ve done our job well.”

Charline Pichon

“Of course, the last glass matters. But what I love most is hearing guests say: ‘Thank you for the experience you’ve brought us through these wines.’ I hope they’ll remember it all: a story we might have shared, a smile, a moment of delight, a wine decanted at the table. It’s all part of the experience.”