Horseback: galloping across the world

25 May 2026

Megan Lambert

There are some places where time is measured in hoofbeats and the shifting seasons. So settle into your saddle and prepare for a ride across the Argentine Pampas, through French wildflower meadows and on again to Spanish sierras–in conversation with those taking the reins of these equine escapes.

The gaucho way

Celebrating two decades since Stéphanie and Raoul Fenestraz first opened its doors, El Colibri feels as if it emanates from a different era. Home to gauchos, a polo team and a tropilla (herd) of native Criollo horses, the pair have triumphed in blending European hospitality with the genius loci of these surroundings. ‘Horse Paradise,’ an immersive gaucho experience curated by the estancia, up to six hours of horseback riding per day, marks this milestone. “Every day is different,” Maxi, one of El Colibri’s gauchos, explains. One morning you’re honing a trail through the Pampas, the next it’s a pre-polo mate to sharpen the senses. Here, “the landscape is peaceful and wide open,” Maxi says. “It invites you to slow down and connect with nature.” But even he will admit that it’s not solely about the riding. “It’s about discovering a way of life that’s simple, genuine and full of heart.” Few communicate this better than Chef Léo Bramajo, who prepares ranch-reared Aberdeen Angus beef the gaucho way–under the stars and over an open flame. At El Colibri, reached just 45 minutes from Córdoba, riding across Argentina’s rugged expanses, with the wind at your back and a Criollo beneath you, the ‘gaucho way’ no longer feels like a choice–it’s a calling.

Where humans, animals and nature coexist

Finca La Donaira’s resident horse whisperer, Seamus Gaffney, isn’t from these parts. Home is a small farming community in County Cavan, Northern Ireland, where “you were doing well if you had a couple of plow horses.” Raised on old Westerns, his first ride was aged four. Fixated on the relationship between Native Americans and their horses, his curiosity would take him to Wales, Montana and Brazil, in pursuit of natural horsemanship. Born, raised and trained by Seamus, La Donaira’s Lusitano horses are at one with this land. Extolled by no less than Virgil, the Roman poet, for their speed and grace, today they carry riders across golden pastures, with the Serranía de Ronda mountains as a backdrop. Whether you come to gallop or as a first-time rider, Seamus recommends a natural horsemanship session–an approach for creating a positive and respectful relationship between rider and horse, by communicating using horses’ natural behavior, gently and without brutality: “At the end of the day, it is the horse that teaches you everything.” A new member in the Relais & Châteaux family, Finca La Donaira is more than a place to escape, it is a lesson–on how humans, animals and nature can coexist. Here, you don’t just ride. You listen. You learn. The lessons nature has to teach and the stories horses have to tell provide a powerful source of inspiration.

Soulful creatures

Mathilde and Alexandre Keff met over a case of champagne. She was working in the wine trade, and he was a client–proprietor of Le Domaine de la Klauss. In time, she gave up her job, joined him as Maître de maison and they were married. Her new life allowed her to reignite a passion for horses. Despite a childhood in the saddle, adult life hadn’t allowed much time to enjoy the ‘wind of heaven’ said to blow between a horse’s ears. But after Alexandre gifted Mathilde her first horse, she could again indulge–and share–her enthusiasm for the animals. The herd has since grown to seven Iberians. Experienced riders can join Mathilde to gallop through ancient woodlands, but she is just as passionate about welcoming novices. “The horses are so gentle,” she says, “our guests lead busy lives. Time with the horses–it slows them down.” With an equine psychologist, she has curated a series of therapeutic experiences for guests–from stress management to emotional control, improved communication and leadership skills. They can paint the Lorraine landscape, a quiet horse nuzzling beside them, or bond with the soulful creatures at breakfast. Here, life slows, and sometimes, love stories begin, whether with humans or horses (champagne, optional).

A dance between man and horse

Almost as old as Argentina herself, La Bamba de Areco’s vermillion walls speak of its independent spirit and a political past. It took its current form as a polo stud when the owners were looking for somewhere to base their polo team but “don’t be fooled, this is no country club,” laughs Maître de maison, Guillermo Savino. An afternoon’s ride from the birthplace of the gaucho tradition, San Antonio de Areco, life at La Bamba–from the staff to the menu–reflects its sense of place. And no person encompasses this like head gaucho Martin Tatta. Often touted as ‘the world’s best horse whisperer’ (a moniker he’d never use himself), Martin was born at the estancia. The very fibers of his being are woven into its tapestry. No one taught Martin how to speak to horses: “It is something that comes naturally. It just came out.” Each afternoon, guests can witness his display of doma India, as it’s called here–a tacit conversation, a dance perhaps, between man and horse. Discover La Bamba’s Argentina on horseback as you gallop across the Pampas or while away an afternoon by the Areco River. Revel in the day’s adventures as gauchos do, with a traditional Argentine asado–no mere barbecue, but a coming together over good food and delicious wine. “People arrive at La Bamba as guests and leave as friends”, says Guillermo.