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On the other side of a geographic enigma — is the Río de la Plata a river or a bay? — lies a neighbor one-tenth the size but that has many traits in common with Argentina. Here as well, the horsemen are world-class (as proven by the rodeos in Montevideo during HolyWeek), literature is a religion (with Onetti as a worthy cousin of Cortázar) and the beef asados are the tastiest in the world. Not to mention another devouring passion: soccer! In the rival seaside resorts of Punta del Este and Mar del Plata, a discussion of the relative merits of the Celeste (Uruguay’s national team, winner of the firstWorld Cup in 1930) and the Albiceleste (Argentina, a two-time winner) can easily take you to the end of la noche…
