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On the other side of a geographic enigma — is the Río de la Plata a river or a bay? — lies a neighbor one-tenth the size but that has many traits in common with Argentina. Here as well, the horsemen are world-class (as proven by the rodeos in Montevideo during HolyWeek), literature is a religion (with Onetti as a worthy cousin of Cortázar) and the beef asados are the tastiest in the world. Not to mention another devouring passion: soccer! In the rival seaside resorts of Punta del Este and Mar del Plata, a discussion of the relative merits of the Celeste (Uruguay’s national team, winner of the firstWorld Cup in 1930) and the Albiceleste (Argentina, a two-time winner) can easily take you to the end of la noche…
Restaurant on the seafront. In the heart of Uruguay’s most exclusive seaside resort, Chef Jean-Paul Bondoux has recreated a piece of his native Burgundy. In a quiet residential area of Punta del Este, surrounded by a magnificent garden, Bondoux produces authentic French cuisine using products from his own farm, like zucchini flowers stuffed with chicken or roast rack of lamb in garden herbs. “My cuisine is close to the land,” Bondoux says. “I love thyme, rosemary, garlic, onions, tomatoes – everything that comes from the earth.” The boutique next to the restaurant pays tribute to the terroir of France with brioches, croissants and cheeses that can’t be found anywhere else in Uruguay.
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Hotel and restaurant in a vineyard. Cellar, farm, restaurant and lodge all in one – it is one of a kind and utterly charming. Historically so as it is one of the most famous wineries in Uruguay, founded in 1909. And also because it is renowned for its top-quality products, highly reputed wines and traditionally cured cheeses. And especially because of its charming surroundings – the restaurant, which serves delicious peasant cuisine, occupies a former grocer's shop where the wooden shelving and counter have been preserved. The lodge boasts sleekly decorated, spacious guestrooms drenched in light. The pool surrounded by gardens, the patio overlooking the vines and the paths leading off into the vineyards – all enticements to enjoy the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
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