Seafarer and shaper of nature, Christopher Coutanceau unveils his new book. It features gourmet recipes, but also a year-round fishing calendar and seafood preparation recommendations that respect the provenance and freshness of the produce. An unforgettable voyage to the flagship of La Rochelle.
Shellfish marinière, marinated baby mackerel, cucumbers and citrus
Place the lemon juice, Le Baume de Bouteville, soy sauce, ponzu, ginger, and lime zest in a mixing bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste. Blend together using a whisk while gradually adding the olive oil. Set aside.
MARINATED BABY MACKEREL
Filet the fish, remove skin and bones. Keep only the white flesh.
Cut the filet into slender escalopes with a well-sharpened knife (plan on five small slices per person). Arrange delicately on a plate. Add salt and spice to taste. Pour a small quantity of ponzu marinade over filets and refrigerate.
Peel the cucumber and chop into fine cubes. Place the cucumber, rice vinegar, salt, sugar, fresh-ground pepper, and chopped dill in a bowl. Stir with a spoon and arrange in the center of a bowl.
Wash the cucumbers, cut lengthwise into four pieces, centrifuge, then pass the resulting juice through a fine conical strainer. Heat 50 g of cucumber juice, add the gelatin, then add the remaining juice. Mix and season with salt, fresh-ground pepper, and wasabi powder. Place the mixture in a 500 ml cream siphon and, using two gas cartridges, fluff into a mousse. Place in the refrigerator to set the gelatin.
Wash the shellfish and let soak for 1 hour in water with coarse salt, except for the verni and razor clams. Open the verni and razor clams with the tip of a paring knife. Remove the shellfish from the salt water, place them in a pot, and set aside. In a pan, sweat the shallots, thyme, and bay leaf in butter, deglaze with white wine, add all the shellfish, and cook over high heat, covered, for 45 seconds. Pour out onto a baking tray. Collect the juices to use in the dill butter.
Remove the shellfish meat from the shells and place in a pan with the verni and razor clams and add a small amount of shellfish jus. For each person, plan on 4 vanets, 2 dog cockles, 5 lavagnons, 4 cockles. Heat slightly and strain using a strainer.
In a saucepan, reduce the shellfish juices and whisk together with butter. Add the lemon juice, whipped cream, then season with salt and pepper. Add chopped dill just before serving.
ASSEMBLY AND GARNISH
With the siphon, dispense the mousse onto the cucumber brunoise, place the mackerel fillets on top of the cucumber mousse, sprinkle with wasabi powder, add a splash of helichrysum vinegar.
Garnish with shiso mix sprouts. Arrange the hot shellfish on a dinner plate, coat generously with dill butter, and garnish with shiso mix greens.
Recipe from the book:
"Christopher Coutanceau, the fishing chef"
From furniture to tableware and - of course - the menu, the marine world is everywhere in chef Christopher Coutanceau’s flagship restaurant overlooking La Concurrence beach in La Rochelle. In his new book Cuisinier pêcheur (The Fishing Chef), he talks about his commitment to work exclusively with line-caught fish, shellfish and crustaceans sourced locally and eco-responsibly. As a member of many different marine resource protection organizations, Christopher Coutanceau regularly crusades in defense of his beliefs. He promotes the cause of sustainable fishing based on size and season, and selects all his produce from the immediate area around La Rochelle to fulfill a very real commitment to showcasing the rich gastronomic heritage of the region. For this chef, the ocean is a never-ending source of amazement and inspiration... his book is the perfect tribute to his beliefs.
Book by Patricia Khenouna, Christopher Coutanceau and Philippe Vaures Santa-Maria
Collection Le verre et l'assiette