Retracing the coastal paths of the customs officials is to walk between land and sea; here, you’ll find yourself in a protected, unchanged world where the landscape seems to thank you with each new step. Between the wind and the sea spray, you’ll discover wonderfully fragrant plants, the silhouettes of centuries-old lighthouses, sandy beaches, pink granite rocks, lost islets, and sailboats right out of the pages of Joseph Conrad. Starting at the bay of Mont Saint-Michel, this coastal slice of Brittany is a gateway to all emotions...
This route was created by Olivier Roellinger, Owner of the Maisons de Bricourt
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Restaurant and hotel on the seafront. At Les Maisons de Bricourt there are breathtaking views of the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel and, at your feet, the oyster farms and the little port of Cancale. In this world of the seafarers of Saint-Malo, the spirit of the restaurant Le Coquillage is one of elegant simplicity. The cuisine with produce from the bay of Cancale reflects the maritime adventures of this pirate country by using more than 120 spices from the East and West Indies. You will find two residences; the château Richeux and the cottage Les Rimains, as well as Les Gîtes Marins for families. The Roellingers’s joie de vivre is evident in the patisserie-tea room Grain de Vanille and the Épices-Roellinger warehouse.
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It’s got the lot: a unique current, an incredible soundtrack and intoxicating aromas. The wind blows off the sea, you go down without ever seeing the beach. First of all, you smell the sea, then hear it, and then, finally, you see it. The beach opens up like the doors of a cathedral. It is incredibly...
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Take a guided walk across the Bay
Crossing the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel is quite an experience! You need to come at low tide or during the spring tides in order to explore these (moving) sandy moors and get closer to scenery like no other in the world. Crossing with a guide allows you to avoid the dangers and discover the special history...
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Look out for the bisquine La Cancalaise
Also known as the “black widow”, this is a replica ship which was launched by the great Éric Tabarly. The ship, which has many sails and is very powerful, was formerly used to dredge for wild oysters. As one of the fastest fishing boats on the continent, it has been able to challenge yachtsmen on the...
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Surrounded by the immense sea and the reefs of the Pink Granite Coast, the Manoir de Lan-Kerellec in Trébeurden is a jewel in Brittany’s crown. From your balcony, drink in the magical panoramic view of the islands of Milliau, Molène and Losquet. Then you might want to take a walk along the coastal "path of the customs officers" to taste the sea spray, or scuba dive for a closer look at the underwater nature reserve. Enjoy your dinner showcasing the produce of the sea in the dining room built in the shape of an upturned boat, a masterpiece by the Compagnons du Devoir.
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Île Milliau is a small island which seems to float in the sea, a stone’s throw away from Trébeurden. It can be reached at low tide via the Passage du Gois (watch out for the tides!). With a little luck, you might find some wild orchids on the island.
The Sentier des Douaniers, an enormous herbarium
The Sentier des Douaniers is a gigantic herbarium: campion, wild sorrel, burnet, wild fennel, anise, glasswort, saltbush and sea purslane. You can find all kinds of smells and flavours. On the shore you can also collect seaweed, from laver to dulse and sea lettuce. This marine garden is incredibly rich,...
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Discover the “vélo-photo de Mme Yvonne” (Le Vieux-Marché)
Between 1902 and 1952, Yvonne Kerdudo, a nurse and photographer who had frequented the Lumière Brothers' studios, pedaled through the Trégor region on a bicycle to bear witness to the life of her region: weddings, soldiers and their close friends and families during the two wars, work in the fields...all...
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Formerly a smuggling port and refuge, Roscoff has remained a unique destination, with its waves of emerald, granite cottages and manor houses nestled amongst the cliffs. This hideaway is an ancient trader’s property with a swimming pool, spa and direct access to the beach. The chef will treat you to an exceptional quality of fish and seafood, directly sourced from the local fishermen. His cuisine is a reflection of modern Brittany; it is a real pleasure to see, to feel, to taste! A 15 minutes boat trip is all that is needed to discover the island of Batz, a “tropical” pearl with palm trees and beaches of fine sand that has been magically misplaced in the English Channel.
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A few kilometres from Morlaix, take a brief detour from the Sentier des Douaniers to discover the magnificent parish close of Saint-Thégonnec. Completed in 1610, its impressive calvary illustrates the Passion and the Resurrection of Christ. The sculpture was made possible by donations from villagers...
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Morlaix and its half-timbered houses
Morlaix is the only town in Brittany where you can still find these half-timbered houses, which were built in the 16th century by rich linen merchants. The Maison à Pondalez at number 9 Grand rue, with its street-facing corbelled facade, is a rare surviving illustration of the golden age of the town.
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On the route
The Sentier des Douaniers... at the full moon
Walking along the Sentier des Douaniers on the night of a full moon might well be the most enchanting experience there is. On the one hand, there is the moon, sparkling on the sea, on the other, waves crashing on the rocks, creating strange fluorescent effects. It is then that you understand this land...
Hotel and restaurant in a village. It began as a blacksmith’s forge, then an inn stocked by the adjoining farm where workers and villagers met. Today, it is where Olivier Bellin, who took over from his grandmother and mother, interprets his “modern” version of a “land and sea” cuisine steeped in history. The fish are wild varieties, the vegetables are organic and the meat comes from small producers. Magnified in dishes boasting intense flavours, they continually seduce local Bretons and attract travellers who enjoy staying in the rooms adorned in highly contemporary decor. On sunny days, the magnificent view over the Bay of Douarnenez adds the final touch.
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Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Refined dishes such as lobster ravioli, croustille of tourteau, suckling veal and lamb from the Ponclet farm, white of turbot… take on a special flavour when they are served on the seafront in a wonderful place like Hôtel de la Plage. The panoramic restaurant overlooks the ocean and the vast beach of fine sand, only separated by a unique dry stone wall. There are similar views from the rooms, where you can hear the gentle lapping of the waves. Guests with families will enjoy the beach entirely dedicated to children, the water-based recreational activities and walks offered by the Bay of Douarnenez and the Finistère.
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At the western end of Cornouaille, you’ll discover a jagged coastline beaten by currents and sea foam. Facing the fearsome Raz de Sein, these high cliffs covered with moors are classified as a Grand Site of France. Here, you’ll abandon yourselves to the elements, staggering against the winds. Even the...
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Take a quick trip to Sein Island
Sein is much more than a tiny piece of land off the Pointe du Raz... it's one of the most enchanting islands on the Atlantic coast! With no water source, no trees or cultivated fields, the island will charm you nevertheless with its colorful houses and moorland landscapes. Entirely turned towards the...
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On the route
The port of Audierne
Audierne is one of the fifteen ports in Brittany which still have a fish auction. No one knows how much longer it will continue. The fishermen are now a minority compared with the armada of recreational boaters. However, there are about twenty vessels which still practise line-fishing, one of the most...
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The Créac’h Lighthouse
Along with Molène and Sein, Ouessant is the last piece of land before the expanse of the Atlantic. Their lighthouses are all the more important for it. It must be remembered that the lighthouse keepers were for a long time amongst the few people who remained on the island, as all the others went off...
Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Locguénolé is located next to the dark waters of a sea inlet in the heart of a land of legends. The Château and the small Manor House overlook a wide estuary where the light and landscape change with the tides. These buildings from the 18th and early 19th centuries are set in wooded parkland and have remained in the hands of the same family for centuries. They boast a combination of modern comfort and tradition with classical décor and period furniture. The creative cuisine is based on a subtle pairing of ingredients from the Morbihan terroir and the ocean. A private pontoon permits sailors travelling up the Blavet from Lorient harbour to dock at this delightful haven.
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Through model ships, old maps, prints and porcelain, this museum describes the splendid history of the trading companies which unloaded their wares, direct from Africa and Asia, onto the docks of Lorient in the 17th and 18th centuries. A visit to the museum is also a voyage into the world of spices...
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Île de Groix
Known to Bretons as “Witch’s Island”, this little island has long been a productive spot for tuna fishermen. The evidence: take a look at the top of the church tower in Saint-Tudy, and you will see that the weathervane is a tuna and not a rooster! The island retains its wild side, with a nature reserve...
**Offer cannot be combined, valid for an itinerary in at least 2 different Relais & Châteaux establishments, reserved with Relais & Châteaux concierges, discount applicable on certain rates and certain establishments. List available from our concierges.
Total price communicated as an indication, based on a stay of the number of nights recommended on this webpage, taking place in the next 3 months, and based on double occupancy (excluding recommended activities, excluding properties not bookable online).
Reservation Service
To give you inspiration, Relais & Châteaux presents the Routes du Bonheur:
Suggestions for travel itineraries that you can fully personalise according to your wishes and the experiences you would like to discover. Our consultants are available to help customise your route and assist you in making reservations at our properties. It is up to you to reserve any recommended activities on-site or nearby that might interest you.
** Offer cannot be combined, valid for an itinerary in at least 2 different Relais & Châteaux establishments, reserved with Relais & Châteaux concierges, discount applicable on certain rates and certain establishments. List available from our concierges. Call our concierge to tailormade your booking and itinerary*. *Price of a local call
Circuit around the coast of Brittany by The Sentier des Douaniers
This route was created by Olivier Roellinger, Owner of the Maisons de Bricourt
"I was born in this corsair’s house, where I have gone on to cook for nearly thirty years. Today it is a charming hotel and a spice workshop, where we create our own powders and mixtures. I never needed to put a shell to my ear to hear the sea; all I had to do was tear down the little road in front of our house. Here we learn to row a boat before learning to ride a bike. As a child, I was even lucky enough to play in an attic where Robert Surcouf himself had played. The Sentier des Douaniers passes just a few metres from our door. This trail tells our history, from the Gallo country to the Bigouden, and narrates all the sufferings and all the joys of the people. Over to you to discover it…"