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Antonio Saraiva holds a degree in oenology from his years in Bordeaux, but he has spent most of his life in the city of Porto and in the Douro Valley. Both knowledgeable and passionate about this valley, which is listed as a Unesco World Heritage site, he gives us some insider tips. "I was born into a winemaking family from Douro and, for as long as I can remember, I have always loved walking through vineyards. My grandfather would say to me: "To make good wine, you have to plant in the right place: where the grapes drink up the sun and eat the dust." I’ve never forgotten that. My childhood was divided between Porto, where I went to school, and Pinhão, where I spent weekends and holidays. These two places illustrate the Douro Valley, one of the most beautiful in the world. In this Road to Happiness, I invite you to discover the river that flows between magnificent quintas…"
To give you inspiration, Relais & Châteaux presents the Routes du Bonheur: suggestions for travel itineraries that you can fully personalise according to your wishes and the experiences you would like to discover. Our consultants are available to help customise your route and assist you in making reservations at our properties. It is up to you to reserve any recommended activities on-site or nearby that might interest you.
*Total price provided for information only, based on accommodation for two people in a double room for the number of nights per property as indicated on this page, exclusive of recommended activities, properties that cannot be reserved online and restaurants.
Hotel and restaurant in town. Settle down onto the terrace of your room and admire the panoramic view: beneath your eyes, Porto, listed as a Unesco World Heritage site, and the sinewy curves of the Douro river. The Yeatman, located in the heart of Vila Nova de Gaia, the historical headquarters of the Port wine houses, owes its name to a family of British traders who are still active: a legacy that can be found in the décor of the rooms and the great collection of Portuguese wines. The Chef showcases contemporary gastronomy in the restaurant, where food and wine pairing is an important part of the dining experience. The final touch is the choice of Caudalie and Vinotherapie® treatments for the spa.
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Behind its neo-Gothic facade, this superb bookshop is a sheer delight. Opened in 1906 at 144 Rua das Carmelitas, in the university district, Lello was ranked in the top three most beautiful bookshops in the world by the British newspaper The Guardian. After leafing though a few books, you can enjoy a coffee in the light from the vast glass roof. Around the winding staircase you will find books in several languages and translations of the greatest Portuguese writers. Poetry readings and exhibitions are regularly held here. More than just a bookshop, Lello is a place for the arts.
A visit to the Rozès wine warehouses
Although remains of amphorae and vats, some dating back as far as the 3rd century, have been found in the Douro region, the "port wine" designation dates back only to the 17th century. The Rozès company was founded in 1855. Our wines are known all over the world for their elegance and balance. By prior arrangement, we offer individual guided tours of our warehouses, led by an oenologist who organises tastings. Our warehouses are located in Porto’s Vila Nova de Gaia neighbourhood, inside former mines hollowed into the granite, overlooking the river.
I particularly like to walk in the grounds of this contemporary art museum. With a formal garden, a small artificial lake and surprising statues, the 18-hectare grounds would practically be worth the visit on their own. Inside, the museum is decorated in art deco style, and hosts temporary exhibitions of avant-garde artists, concerts and dance shows. The museum also houses a large collection of contemporary artworks. Antoni Tapiès and many other famous artists have exhibited here.
Hotel and restaurant in town. The lemon-yellow facade of the Casa da Calçada hints at the sunny stay that awaits at this hotel. Situated in the heart of the town of Amarante, between the bustle of Porto and the sun-dappled countryside of the Douro Valley, both less than an hour away, this building dating back to the 16th century, with its golden baroque interiors, is a favourite with those who love beauty, golf, great wine and gastronomy. Nearby you find a splendid 18-hole golf course. The hotel also produces “Vinho Verde” wines, and on-site activities include a tour of the region’s best wine “quintas” that will ensure that you never forget the differences between Tawny, Ruby, White or Vintage Port.
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The palace of the counts of Vila Real is worth visiting, both for its interiors and its splendid gardens. This baroque-style palace was built in the first half of the 18th century. Upstairs, a nice little museum holds some copper engravings by Fragonard. A chapel and a cellar complete the group of buildings. I am well acquainted with Count Fernando de Albuquerque, who lives in the palace and supplies his grapes to the Rozès company. Each year, I go to the palace for the ceremony for the Dom Diniz prize, one of the country’s most prestigious literary prizes.
Located on Travessa Branca Martinho, in Peso da Regua, the family restaurant Cacho d’Oiro becomes my "canteen" as soon as the grape harvest begins. I have lunch there nearly every day with my friends. The menu boasts some 40 dishes but I almost always choose their octopus fillets, which are quite simply delicious! From time to time I also drop in for a glass of wine at Castas e Pratos, a tapas bar located in Régua train station. In a very pleasant setting, it offers a fine selection of wines produced in the valley, smoked meat and good cheeses.
La Casa do Douro, Peso da Régua
Built in 1944, this immense art deco building is the administrative headquarters of the Association of Wine Growers of the Douro Region. Stop to admire the five gigantic chandeliers and the magnificent modern stained-glass windows, produced by the artist Lino Antonio, which tell the story of the wine making process. Peso da Régua has long been considered the gateway to the vineyards. This is where the isolated quintas loaded their wine barrels bound for Porto. The very opulent Casa do Douro is above all a reminder that Douro’s 45,000 hectares of vineyard are divided between some 30,000 winemakers… So many small producers, each creating their own wines.
My grandfather was the mayor of the small neighbouring town of Pinhão. We often had family picnics in the woods around the Lamego shrine. The two monumental flights of steps, 686 in all, were at that time a pilgrimage site. Although we were children, we knew very well that we couldn’t run up and down the steps. You still saw women, dressed in black, climbing the steps one-by-one on their knees. As impressive as they are, for me, these steps remain a place of suffering.
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