From a tiny child, I have always moved to the rhythm of a kitchen. I started hotel management school at Grenoble, and then furthered my training alongside Alain Chapel, Roger Vergé, Frédy Girardet, Michel Guérard, Pierre Wynants, Alice Waters, Michel Bourdin at the Connaught: the perfect career path and also one with a huge amount of variety.
The premature death of my uncle Jean, was what brought my wife, Marie-Pierre, and me back to Roanne. We were somewhat happy go lucky but we did manage to win over our customers who had wondered whether the restaurant had a future. In 1996, we opened Le Central, more of a café-grocery. Then, in 2008, we opened La Colline du Colombier, a dream farm in the countryside.
My cuisine is minimalist, with no flounces, sometimes playful and I always strive for balance in my respect for flavours. These flavours are precise and bright as I use acidity to effect. And I allow myself absolute freedom when it comes to seasoning.
What was your most moving culinary experience? Michel Bras’ vegetable Gargouillou, with its stunning purity and balance.
The most amusing kitchen incident you ever witnessed?A power cut before serving a meal to a very large party and our kitchen was 100% electric. We did what we could on two gas stoves under candle light. At the end of the day, everyone enjoyed it and so we chose to do the same thing again of our own accord.
Your best piece of advice for amateur chefs? Do what you know how to. It is a mistake to open the book of a great chef and to try and do one of the recipes for the first time. You’re highly likely to get it wrong.
France
Maison Troisgros
