Relais & Châteaux is an exclusive collection of 500 of the finest charming hotels and gourmet restaurants in 60 countries. From the vineyards in Napa valley to the beaches in Bali, from the olive trees in Provence to the lodges in South Africa, Relais & Châteaux offers all the stops on the finest route for discovering each special place and country.
In all our properties, each maître de maison draws upon his unique experience and passion to share the authentic culture and tastes of his region with every guest.
Magical places and memories of a lifetime: whether it be a romantic weekend or to celebrate the important moments of life such as birthdays, anniversaries, honeymoon or family reunions.
Established in France more than 50 years ago, Relais & Châteaux has become a renowned reference of excellence in the hotel and restaurant world. The Association's mission is to spread its unique art de vivre across the globe by selecting outstanding properties with a truly unique character.
Keller: There were several points along the way that led to my becoming a chef. In July, 1977, I met Chef Roland Henin. He had a profound impact. He connected the dots for me. I learned the physical activity of cooking: doing 300 covers a night, for example. He also made me realize that the importance of having other people involved and that the whole point is the people in the dining room: To nurture them.
There is inspiration all around you. It’s never one thing. You find it in in lots of different places and none of them you would want to predict. You just realize and embrace them. It can be being at the beach, reading, golfing, sports in the water. Lately, the last two years, I’ve been focused on golf. I love the determination involved, the rituals and the repetition--all that helps make one a good cook. Because I love repetition.
Benno: I remember, very early on, my first job was washing dishes in a place called the Oxford House restaurant. I was amazed at the amount of work and its scope in a day: cooking, butchering, taking care of staff, scheduling, running the front, taking care of the guests. It seemed incredibly challenging. I always was and still am excited and frustrated to do what we do. It requires mastery of a diverse skill set. I’m challenged to this day. When I first got started, I sought a career path where I’d never stop learning. Twenty three years later, it’s still true. Not a day goes by where I learn something: good things, bad things. It’s not for everybody! It’s not easy.
I recently spent a week at my family’s house with my wife and daughter--we’re about three hours north of Portland, Maine, just below Acadia, in a place called Brooklyn. My wife’s folks own the house. It’s built on a premise of a boathouse and is really, really beautiful. No TV and no cell phone reception, and you have to go into town to get mail. It’s right on the water. We were there for one week: taking bike rides, cooking three meals a day. My wife is also a chef. We cooked together. Cooking at home is very different from restaurant work. I love to cook, and to do that at home was very, very relaxing and very satisfying. To be able to cook in Maine where we had farm produce, blackberries, and fresh seafood!
What was your most moving culinary experience? Keller: My first dinner at Masa Takayama. It wasn’t just the food. It was the movements, the rituals, almost like a dance, all the nuances behind the cooking. His food is extraordinary. The grilled mushrooms in parchment, almost charred, the black silhouette of the mushroom on the parchment. Or the first course of caviar and toro! The green tea, almost fluorescent, in its froth, the way it feels in our mouth.
Another was my first time at a three-star Michelin: Michel Guèrard. The perfect poached egg!
Benno: Probably the last time I cooked at the restaurant (Per Se) for my mother. My mother...passed away a couple of years ago. I feel a wave of emotion just talking about it. Nothing is more rewarding than seeing your parents proud of you. I am getting a little teary eyed.
The most amusing kitchen incident you ever witnessed? Keller: I can think of a couple. Watching Jean Louis Palladin cooking foie gras when we were in Israel. There was quite a commotion in the kitchen as the rabbis were telling him how to cook it kosher. Who won? The rabbi. Another time was when I had to close Rakel, which was very sad--But I invited friends and frequent guests to a Superbowl party: Hot dogs! Burgers!
Benno: When I worked at Daniel, a long time ago, he would expedite and then, too, have the habit of running into the dining room to greet customers and then run back to the kitchen to tell us to create something new or special for them. Alex Lee was in charge, screening orders, to see what had been ordered, but Daniel kept the new dupes or orders in his pocket. You had to have a survival mechanism or sense of humor about it.
Your best piece of advice for amateur chefs? Keller: If you fail at something, it’s OK just to continue. If, as professionals, we fail at something and don’t do it again, where would we be? So perfect your skills. Do things over and over and over again. You become proficient through repetition. Don’t give up. If you get it right the first time, you’re extremely lucky. So be patient.
Benno: Same advice as I give to the guys in the kitchen: Respect the integrity of ingredients. It doesn’t matter if it’s a dinner of mixed greens and tomatoes with Paul Newman dressing or 90 covers tonight. Respect is the most important thing a cook can do and will lead to the best results.
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