There were several points along the way that led to my becoming a chef. In July, 1977, I met Chef Roland Henin. He had a profound impact. He connected the dots for me. I learned the physical activity of cooking: doing 300 covers a night, for example. He also made me realize that the importance of having other people involved and that the whole point is the people in the dining room: To nurture them.
There is inspiration all around you. It’s never one thing. You find it in in lots of different places and none of them you would want to predict. You just realize and embrace them. It can be being at the beach, reading, golfing, sports in the water. Lately, the last two years, I’ve been focused on golf. I love the determination involved, the rituals and the repetition--all that helps make one a good cook. Because I love repetition.
What was your most moving culinary experience?
My first dinner at Masa Takayama. It wasn’t just the food. It was the movements, the rituals, almost like a dance, all the nuances behind the cooking. His food is extraordinary. The grilled mushrooms in parchment, almost charred, the black silhouette of the mushroom on the parchment. Or the first course of caviar and toro! The green tea, almost fluorescent, in its froth, the way it feels in our mouth.
Another was my first time at a three-star Michelin: Michel Guèrard. The perfect poached egg!
The most amusing kitchen incident you ever witnessed?
I can think of a couple. Watching Jean Louis Palladin cooking foie gras when we were in Israel. There was quite a commotion in the kitchen as the rabbis were telling him how to cook it kosher. Who won? The rabbi. Another time was when I had to close Rakel, which was very sad--But I invited friends and frequent guests to a Superbowl party: Hot dogs! Burgers!
Your best piece of advice for amateur chefs?
If you fail at something, it’s OK just to continue. If, as professionals, we fail at something and don’t do it again, where would we be? So perfect your skills. Do things over and over and over again. You become proficient through repetition. Don’t give up. If you get it right the first time, you’re extremely lucky. So be patient.
United States
