Filzmoos, a place of pilgrimage, is situated in Fritzenbach valley, half an hour from Salzburg. It is renowned for its Kindl, a Baroque-like figure of the Jesus child on the church altar. The restaurant of Johanna Maier - the ever-smiling “angel” in the kitchen, with her white linen dirndl - is also a Mecca for gourmets. Her variations of trout and foie gras, and her desserts, which revisit the aromas of apricots, elder and raspberries, have secured her celebrity status in Austria. Another empress in the land of Sissi.