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Hotel Bareiss im Schwarzwald.

Restaurant and hotel in a village. Germany,Baiersbronn-Mitteltal

Claus-Peter Lumpp

Hotel Bareiss im Schwarzwald Baiersbronn-Mitteltal D-72270

My grandmother was a wonderful cook. It wasn’t so easy to put one over on her when it came to cooking. And even if I wasn’t really aware of this as a child, I am sure that she was the person who influenced me in my formative years.

I did my training and apprenticeship in hotels with excellent cuisine and great chefs: at the Hotel Bareiss, at the Victorian in Düsseldorf, with Alain Ducasse at the Hotel de Paris, at the Rheinhotel Fischerzunft with André Jaeger and at the Le Val d´Or with Johann Lafer – to mention just a few. The mosaic stones of all these experiences put their stamp on me: all these chefs shared a high degree of professionalism, perfect mastery of their art and the uniqueness of their own style.

In 1992 I became executive chef at my old training venue, the Hotel Bareiss. As someone who had gone through the “Bareiss mill”, it was a great challenge for me to take over the then 2-star gourmet restaurant at the hotel. The best and most wonderful day of my time here was – and I can remember the exact minute – noon on 13 November 2007, a Tuesday. That was when we received the news that the restaurant had been awarded its third Michelin star.

What was your most moving culinary experience?
It always moves me when I have the privilege of eating and enjoying a good product that has been well prepared: a juicy apple straight from the tree or the freshly baked bacon pancakes in an inn or a langouste in a gourmet restaurant.

The most amusing kitchen incident you ever witnessed?
At the Restaurant Bareiss we have a really harmonious atmosphere both front of house and back stage. No-one goes down to the cellar to laugh. However, even a hearty laugh cannot compensate for the by no means insignificant pressure imposed on us by our own demands and the expectations of our guests. Last but not least, we take great pleasure in delighting our guests. But in the final instance that doesn’t have an awful lot to do with fun.

Your best piece of advice for amateur chefs?
Not to try and turn your passion everywhere into a quasi-profession.

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