The second-largest island in the Mediterranean is possibly the most secret of all. The true soul of Sardinia is to be found outside the tourist destinations of the Costa Smeralda, Alghero and Cagliari, in its mountains.

Sardinia is the largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily. Its size, along with its mountains and the wealth of traditions, contributes to its sense of mystery. However, tourists come to Sardinia first and foremost for its coastline. Its 1 800 km of coastline offer an unparalleled choice of different kinds of beach. For several years now, Costa Smeralda, in the north east, has been the main tourist destination. With its sandy beaches, exclusive resorts and chic leisure pursuits, it is renowned for its dolce vita. Elsewhere, you can find secluded authentic spots: in the extreme north and on La Maddalena Island, with its secret beaches and tormented rocks; in the north west towards Castelsardo and Alghero, with their ruins testifying to Spanish conquest and lordly might; in the south west and south east, along the popular beaches of the Chia and Costa Rei coasts. Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia, is an archetypal Mediterranean town with its deafening traffic, young people cramming the streets and wealth of Roman remains. It is the place to go if you want to get a feel for the authentic identity of Sardinia. Albeit located in the extreme south, this city is an excellent starting point if you want to explore the centre of the country and its rocky outcrops. There are several roads you can take, and a train that offers a spectacular journey over tracks crossing the mountains to Abatax. The centre of Sardinia is home to the pulse of the island. In Barbagia and Ogliastra, the villages cling to the harsh land, with its olive groves grazed by goats. Once you have crossed the high peaks of Gennargentu, you come into the fierce and rebellious province of Nuoro, famous for its political murals. A trip through the centre north will reveal a harsher, granitic Sardinia criss-crossed with cork oak forests and nuraghi, the intriguing remains left behind by a people who lived here for 3 000 years.