Provence

Ecclesiastical art at its height

Deep in Provence hide two very special factories unknown to most of the general public: the candle factory at Graveson and the convent-workshop in Simiane-Collongue, Bouches-du-Rhône, where clergy vestments are made. Both perpetuate ancient traditions and are far removed from the pagan hustle and bustle of mass tourism.

The Premonstrant monks have passed on their expertise. Established since 1858 in the Abbaye Saint-Michel-de-Frigolet to the north of the region, these pious candle-makers have revealed the secrets of their production methods to the private sector. Since 1905 and the separation of Church and State, three families have succeeded each other in keeping alive the “cuillère” and “plongée” techniques used to coat the wicks set in the centre of the cylinders with wax.

It was here that the famous “off-white” colour of the candles was invented, a colour that is instantly recognised on church candle-holders. As the number of ecclesiastical clients fell, the candle factory developed its products for the luxury hotel market and the fashionable world of interior decoration. You can see their hand-made products if you visit the workshop, a real step back in time to the world of the craftsman.

The atmosphere is even more intimate in Simiane-Collongue. Set high up in the hills to the north of Marseille, the Sainte-Lioba Monastery hums to the sound of weaving looms. As well as taking time for prayer and meditation, the Benedictine Brothers and Sisters devote each day God gives to making luxury stoles, chasubles and ceremonial robes to grace the shoulders of leading Catholic dignitaries. Their unique creations are worn in France, Africa, Russia and Cambodia... Some priests with modest incomes save every penny they can to buy themselves greater elegance and bring themselves into line with their own idea of the liturgy. Doesn’t fashion have its place in churches?

Ciergerie des Prémontrés, 13690 Graveson, 04 90 95 71 14 (Workshop and shop)

Monastère de Sainte-Lioba, 13109 Simiane-Collonge 04 42 22 60 60 (Shop. The workshop is not accessible to the public)

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