Provence

“Santons”, from tradition to sculpture

If you come to Provence for Christmas, you won’t avoid the “santon” markets. In Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Avignon and Aubagne, they are to the town centres what the Christmas markets are in Alsace, without the mulled wine! The tradition goes back a long way, and even now it encourages the churches to open up crèches in their chapels, while families make room at home for the baby Jesus and the other biblical characters, all made out of terra cotta. The 18th Century “Marseille” school is said to be the most “orthodox”. It wanted to see “santons” as figurines representing only the agricultural and fishing trades in Provence and bringing gifts to Jesus.

But art soon broke free of this obligation. Encouraged by a fashion that popularised “santons” to such an extent that they could be found in living rooms in New York and Tokyo, many craftsmen - or artists - gave free reign to their imagination, making figures that were certainly still Provençal but more contemporary, and in postures that had little to do with religious devotion! Though tradition was lost, art and expressionism won the day. These top craftsmen are rarely seen at public fairs. Far from the ever-popular “santons” market on the Canebière, they are more likely to be seen at specialist shows... or on the Internet. Unless word of mouth puts you on the trail of these highly talented “santon” makers.

La Cabro d’Or
Hotel and restaurant in the country
If you are seeking an elegant country stopover on the way to the Oustau de Baumanière, you will be enchanted by the pure simplicity and the ambience of total liberty at La Cabro d’Or. Set amidst luxuriant foliage overlooking a landscape of olive trees, its comfortable rooms open onto an exceptional garden. The Mediterranean cuisine draws its inspiration from regional products and the hotel garden’s herbs and vegetables. ...Read more
France, Les-Baux-de-Provence

Villa Gallici
Hotel and restaurant in town
This country house overlooking Aix is bathed in the soft Provençal light so often depicted by Cézanne. Set amidst an elegant Florentine garden, where cypress trees are reflected in a luxurious pool, it offers sumptuous rooms with terraces and private gardens. Linger over an aperitif in the shade of the plane trees, then savour traditional Provençal cuisine accompanied by the finest Bordeaux, Burgundy and Aix wines. ...Read more
France, Aix-en-Provence

Oustau de Baumanière
Relais Gourmand Restaurant ‘Relais Gourmand’ and hotel in the country
Baumanière is one of those truly exceptional settings that perfectly reconcile tradition and modernity. The legendary welcome and the luminous rooms immerse you in the contrasting Alpilles landscapes. Jean-André Charial, whose pure poetry is in pursuit of the utmost perfection, is the mythical narrator in the Baux region. The «œuf de poule au fumet de truffes noires» ranks alongside revisited classics. Exceptional wine cellar. ...Read more
France, Les-Baux-de-Provence

Le Petit Nice-Passédat
Relais Gourmand Restaurant ‘Relais Gourmand’ and hotel on the seafront
From the women in the family whom he watched as a child to the master chefs who taught him his trade, one thing is sure: Gérald Passédat’s cuisine is southern. His favourite dish is, of course, the «bouillabaisse», light and zephyr-like without a trace of fat. By reducing the bouillon he creates the impression of eating the very best from the sea! The rooms flooded in blue prolong the magic of dinner with a sea haze. ...Read more
France, Marseille

Abbaye de Sainte Croix
Hotel and restaurant in the country
This magnificent XIIth century abbey, set amidst gardens of lavender and rosemary, has been lovingly restored and the monks’ cells converted into luxury suites and guest rooms. You will be enchanted by the superb Romanesque architecture, the beautiful vaulted ceilings and the delightfully rustic furniture. Dine on the restaurant’s panoramic terrace and savour Provençal cuisine and excellent local vintages. ...Read more
France, Salon-de-Provence

Picture credits : SIM AUBAGNE - P. MASSAÏA / J. NICOLAS / T. KREISER


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