Since the 12th century, the citadel of Sisteron, perched above the river Durance and the town, has witnessed all the comings and goings between the Alps and Provence. And each year, this fortress hosts a festival, Les Nuits de la Citadelle.

Whether you’re coming from the north or the south, you can’t miss Sisteron and its citadel. The fortification, perched on the top of a rocky outcrop protecting the town, is in the perfect location to control the narrow gap formed by the river Durance which has carved out a path between two limestone crags and provided a passage, for centuries, between the Alps and Provence. Military architects then turned this enclosed valley to good effect. From the 12th century on, they built a dungeon and a covered walkway. In the 14th century, these fortifications were extended and this led King Henry IV to say that it was “the most powerful fortress in his kingdom”. Vauban, the architect of Louis XIV, was later to remodel new ramparts.

This citadel today betrays none of its bellicose past and can be visited by history enthusiasts and lovers of superb viewpoints. From the citadel (open from March to November) you can view the surrounding mountains, Old Sisteron and the river Durance. You can make your way through a series of stairs and terraces round the covered walkway, under the dungeon, over to the chapel (16th century, used for exhibitions) to a museum with carriages and souvenirs from the time when Napoleon passed through the town, in 1815, and even down a huge underground stairway carved out of the rock.

Every year this superb site is host to Les Nuits de la Citadelle, a festival renowned for its open-air theatre and dance.