Exploring the Midwest :

The Midwest is sometimes considered the sensible heartland of the United States. But, make no mistake. Instead of unsophisticated and rural communities, this exciting region not only has soaring cities of modern architecture, but some of the country’s best restaurants and many exciting sights. It also has plenty of blankets of stars, lush parks, open space, great lakes and recreational diversions for those who want to get away from daily stress and retreat to unexplored territories. It is a perfect setting for the tradition of Relais & Châteaux Route du Bonheur (road to happiness) a traveler’s journey from one luxury Relais & Châteaux hotel to the next.

To visit the string of Relais & Chateaux luxury resorts and gourmet restaurants in this part of the country you might begin by flying in to Minneapolis and renting a car to take you to the destination resort Canoe Bay just over the border in Wisconsin. Before leaving for this luxury wilderness retreat, however, get a city fix by spending a couple days in the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul, a thriving metropolis perched on the both sides of the Mississippi River. The climate in the Twin Cities varies considerably with moderately warm summers and cold winters accompanied by plenty of snow to appeal to the outdoor recreationalist. Add this to the nearly 1,000 lakes, hundreds of beaches and even ski resorts and you have a natural playground at any time of year. Come in mid-July and join residents for the Minneapolis Aquatennial, ten days celebrating the city’s multitude of lakes.

The Twin Cities are also known for a vast array of cultural attractions. There are more than 100 theater companies producing plays and musicals in more than 30 venues. The Guthrie Theater is one of the best known repertory companies in the country. Both classical and contemporary performances are held in the theater’s new facility just east of Mill City Museum. Of all the museums here, the recently expanded Walker Art Center is the most renowned. After undergoing a recent expansion, this world-class institution has a permanent collection of 20th-century art and photography including work by prominent U.S. painters. The grounds of the Walker hold one of the biggest surprises: a 7-acre Minneapolis Sculpture Garden with a link to Loring Park by a sculptural pedestrian bridge that spans I-94.

Smaller and quieter than Minneapolis, St. Paul has managed to retain more of an historical air than its sister city. The Cathedral of St. Paul presides from a hilltop perch overlooking the city. Aside from that, literary enthusiasts will want to stop by the Victorian house at 599 Summit Avenue, where writer F. Scott Fitzgerald once lived and wrote. And for something completely different, stop by and learn about the sport of curling at the St. Paul Curling Club. A favorite pastime of residents here, curling is played each winter from November through March. To see just how popular cold weather has become in this part of the country, visit in January for the St. Paul Winter Carnival, ten days of ice sculpture and other cold weather celebrations.

Just outside the Twin Cities, shoppers will find a true paradise at the Mall of America, largest in the country. For kids there’s an indoor amusement park with 25 rides including a roller coaster. End your visit with a stop by the Minnesota Zoo, where natural habitats have been arranged for more than 400 species, with an emphasis on animals that live in colder climates.

About 150 miles along I-94 you’ll come to the wilderness luxury resort of Canoe Bay, located in Rusk County, Wisconsin near the town of Chetek. The distinctive 280-acre Canoe Bay is located on a private lake where guests may spend days hiking and riding in summer or snow-shoeing and cross-country skiing when the weather turns cold. This romantic retreat, which opened in 1995, was created in the style of Wisconsin’s great visionary architect Frank Lloyd Wright. All of its 19 buildings were constructed using local materials and designed to harmonize with the natural surroundings. Often called the most luxurious resort in Wisconsin, Canoe Bay offers the ultimate in terms of relaxation and privacy. Resort chef Scott Johnson creates a special four-course gourmet dinner menu each evening using local ingredients from growers, farmers and fishermen. A 3,000-bottle wine cellar completes the picture.

Those spending at least a few days at Canoe Bay will find much to do at this year-round resort. There’s boating and hiking in summer and cross country skiing in winter. Fall, when the autumn colors are at their height, may be the favored time of year. The 50-acre private lake situated on the property has canoes, kayaks and rowboats and more than 3½ miles of hiking trails. Only 40 minutes away Canoe Bay guests will find the Ice Age Park and Trail Foundation. Established in 1958, the foundation protects a thousand-mile foot trail tracing Ice Age formations across Wisconsin and literally thousands of acres of dynamic glacial geology. A huge section of the Ice Age Park is accessible to the public all year long.

Located 35 miles to the northwest of Canoe Bay lies the city of Rice Lake, with fishing, hiking, ATVing, camping and much more. Golfers convene at the Turtleback Golf Course, convenient for players of every level. In winter, cross country skiers have the Blue Hills Trail, a 20-mile trail system of loops within a rolling forest cut by small streams. Go as far as you like. Few run out of terrain before the day’s end.

For a full day’s excursion, head to the spectacular Apostle Islands, approximately three hours from Canoe Bay, and according to many, well worth the trip. Here an unspoiled sprinkling of islands around Lake Superior serve up windswept beaches, lighthouses, and a multitude of wilderness areas. These natural resources are closely protected and the forests, wildlife and other natural features seem untouched by time.

Within the town of Chetek there is much to see and do as well. The prime attraction is the Chetek “Chain of Six Lakes,” which covers 3,800 surface acres and more than 120 miles of shoreline. A small city with only 2000 year-round residents, there are some fun things to do within Chetek itself. The Chetek Hydroflites Water Ski Show Team, a wonderfully talented group of water skiers, performs weekly shows including tricks and choreographed acts each summer on Lakeview Drive, just a mile east of Chetek. The Chetek Museum-Pioneer Village Museum in nearby Cameron has 40 buildings, many historic, filled with heirlooms from Wisconsin’s past. Finally, the Bear Paw Company, owned by the Curtis family, collectors of wildlife mounts, have a number of them on display for all to see. The accompanying sporting goods store is helpful for gearing up to enjoy Wisconsin’s great outdoors.

From Canoe Bay your travels continue past Milwaukee and into the state of Illinois, where along the shores of Lake Michigan you’ll arrive in the great city of Chicago. The New York of the heartland, this metropolis has well earned its nickname as America’s “Second City.” While it continues to break ground in architecture, nightlife, and culture, the city is perhaps best known these days for gastronomy. There’s no need to read a food magazine to know that Chicago is one of the nation’s finest restaurant cities. Just ask anyone who has visited lately and they’ll spread the word that the city’s more than 7,000 restaurants, spread through downtown and into the nearby neighborhoods, will have something to please the most discerning gourmand.

Chicago is home one of Relais & Châteaux finest restaurants Everest, a pinnacle of fine gourmet dining where the cuisine is matched only the magnificent views, among the best in all Chicago. That is because Everest, living up to its name, is located on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange. Sit back and enjoy an evening of dining as theater. The restaurant is in the hands of Alsatian Grand Chef Jean Joho, who draws his inspiration from his home city. He not only comes up with interesting and filling entrees but has won national acclaim for having one of the largest selections of Alsatian wines in the world. The New-French gourmet menu changes with the seasons and guests may order a’ la carte or from a three- or seven-course degustation menu.

Before and after dinner, of course, there’s all of Chicago awaiting you and any time of year is the right time to visit. Bundle up in the winter because the winds that whip off of Lake Michigan have rightly earned the city the nickname of “The Windy City.” Nevertheless, there are festivals and attractions to appeal to the cosmopolitan traveler year round. Believe it or not, Chicago, for all its reputation as a winter cold spot, hosts a Winter Festival Flower and Train Show in December and January. Several model trains wind their way through a miniature village set in a vibrant field of poinsettias for a colorful experience. Springtime brings the Wright Plus House Walk, a tour of private homes in historic Oak Park which were designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Trained docents provide an inside look at why his architecture was so extraordinary. Summer brings the Chicago Blues Festival, a four-day, three-stage event on the city’s lakefront Grant Park. And in fall movie buffs get their turn at the Chicago International Film Festival, a red carpet affair featuring more than 100 films over two weeks.

With a few days time in the city there are some “must-dos.” Begin your visit with a trip to the top of the Sears Tower, a 110-story skyscraper that until 1996 had the distinction of being the tallest building in the world. On a clear day you can see not only all of Chicago but Michigan, Wisconsin and Indiana from the Skydeck here. Then head to Chicago’s Museum Campus, a scenic 57-acre lakefront park with three of the city’s most prestigious museums: The Field Museum, the Shedd Aquarium, and the Adler Planetarium & Astronomy Museum. Besides the hours you could spend on the treasures inside these hallowed institutions, save at least a little time to peruse the grounds, known for lush green spaces, gardens, and broad walkways for bikers, roller bladers and other outdoor adventurers.

Magnificent Mile, which stretches along Michigan Avenue from the Chicago River to Oak Street has four vertical shopping centers to keep the most intrepid shopper ecstatic for days. Oak Street, which branches off Michigan Avenue, is the city’s answer to Madison Avenue with boutiques that carry name designers from around the world. “Mag Mile” as it sometimes called, is also full of upscale restaurants and theaters.

Finally, a very “Chicago-like” activity is to catch a baseball game, particularly at Wrigley Field home of the Chicago Cubs. Grab a hot dog during the seventh inning at this famous ballpark and then soak in the local atmosphere at one of the local sports bars after the game. Chicago fans are enthusiastic at best and they are happy to have visitors (particularly those who are rooting for the home team) join them in a favored activity.

Relais & Châteaux Midwest is a heartland with enough “cool” for the most discerning traveler.

Exploring the Midwest : nearby Relais & Chateaux properties